Update 19th May: Patch 1.4.1 has arrived and specifically addresses the force feedback settings for wheels by changing the way that the suspension setting operates. This means that changing the value on this specifically will alter how the road surface is transmitted through the wheel. We’ve had a play around with different cars and surfaces and adjusted our original Vibration & Feedback settings to factor the change in (leaving the wheel settings the same), and are pretty happy with the surface feel we get. Using this as a base should get you close to a comfortable setup, then it’s personal preference for altering the Suspension for the amount of vibration for the road surface, and the Tyre value for how “stiff” the wheel feels to turn. If you’ve got it as an option, give Monaco a drive to feel the difference between snow and tarmac as those stages demonstrate the extremes nicely.
There’s also a fully detailed pdf of input settings pulled together by game designed and one of the developers to answer any questions at all on all the setup screens. You can find it here.
Update 20th March: Patch 1.2 has released, but does not update the FFB for wheels. We’ll revisit the settings below when that patch eventually comes out.
Original Post: DiRT Rally 2.0 has been released (in deluxe form at least) and anyone buying it will be relishing the challenge it offers as much as they’ll be cursing the realism. For those with a Logitech G29 or G920 steering wheel setup things might not be so easy in the beginning as the default settings don’t show off exactly what the software and hardware can do together. We’ve spent some time with the game tweaking the options and testing them out on FWD, RWD and 4WD beasts; across continents and surfaces; and through sprint stages, daily challenges and the Rally Cross championship. These won’t be to everyone’s tastes, but as a starting point they should help you get to grips with the complex handling model in play, and they’re based on having all assists turned off. Of course, try these with other brands of wheel and let us know if they work there as well.
Steering Wheel Settings
First up it’s how the wheel and pedals translate to the movements of the car. Most critical here is the steering linearity as the default zero position makes it seem a little unresponsive – going negative will exaggerate the response so you don’t need to move the wheel as far in real life, whereas going positive will do the opposite. Brake saturation is another to tweak as the non-linear pedal on the G29 needs careful handling to stop the tyres locking up and pitching you off the track due to it’s relatively small movement picked up by the game (it feels like it tops out before the pedal does). When you move up classes into the RWD cars, it’s worth considering reducing the Throttle Saturation as well, because like the Brake it tends to top out on the in game meter before you hit the pedal stop.
Force Feedback Settings
One of the things the G29 does fairly well is give the level of resistance to movement that makes it feel more realistic. DiRT Rally 2.0 pretty much leaves every setting on 100 and that loses some of the nuance in the game for what gets transmitted through the wheel. This might look like it’s dialling things back a lot, but your arms will thank you after long play sessions. If you find it’s not giving you the wheel wrenching simulation you want then increase the Self Aligning Torque.
Hopefully the above should give a decent baseline for how your G29 or G920 wheel responds, let us and others know in the comments if you find different settings more useful for your driving style. If you’re just casually looking at this and haven’t bought the game yet, check out our review of DiRT Rally 2.0 now that we’ve put the hard miles in and maybe we’ll convince you to powerslide right in.